Roy Heale Gay Travel Journalist: Delta Tigre Islands

Monday, January 3, 2011

Eco-Friendly Florianopolis, Brazil

Gay-Friendly Florianopolis

By Roy Heale

On my second visit to Florianopolis I was fortunate enough to be hosted by local experts Marta Dalla Chiesa and Lesley Cushing, the co-owners of Brazil Eco Journeys, who are the only LGBT tour operators in Southern Brazil. Although it was my second visit to this wonderful, natural paradise island they managed to show me places and attractions that I had not discovered before. They have lived in Florianopolis---affectionately known by locals as Floripa--- for seven years, their company has been assisting LGBT visitors since they arrived. Their knowledge of the island and beyond is second to none. So whether you are visiting for the first time or returning for more of the beaches, sun and fun, be sure to contact them before you leave home for an assurance of the perfect island gay vacation.

Traveling around the island we visited several beaches and villages from the north end to the southern tip reminding me of the diversity on this small island with options for surfing or swimming and relaxing. We spent time at the sand dunes of Mocambique Beach, the International Jurere Beach and village, the Centro Historic Old Town, and my personal favourite Pantano do Sul Beach. We also visited the old Fort of Sao Jose on Ponta Grossa which was built in 1740 and provides great views of the island, the beaches, and the ocean. These are only a few of the highlights and in just five days we managed to traverse the entire island several times with different stops each day. That is one of the pleasures on an island which is 54 km long and 18km wide at its largest point---everything is easily accessible with only a short distance to travel. With 42 diverse beaches, fresh water lagoons, mountains, and more, Floripa is the ideal place for an outdoor adventure with nature.

Pantano do Sul Beach

Naturally this vacation paradise offers a wide variety of restaurants from gourmet dining, to oyster shacks on the beach and everything in between. One of the most popular culinary options is the Brazilian favorite of “Buffet By The Kilo” where you fill your plate and pay for the meal by its weight. There are numerous restaurants with ocean views and, of course, fresh seafood is the main highlight on almost every menu featuring the Catch of the Day.

Barra de Lagoa Fishermen

If you happen to find yourself in the quaint fisherman's village of Barra de Lagoa then a visit to Gabbiani Restaurant is a must. This is one of the historic places in the small township and it began as a restaurant in 1952 and has remained in the same family for three generations. The current owners Rafael and Edson Coelho proudly display black and white photos of the community and the restaurant as it was back in the days when their grandfather started the business. Recently they have remodeled and decorated the building creating their own menu of local specialties. This is a very gay-friendly establishment with great food, attentive service, and a perfect location overlooking the beach. The Coelhos are always there to assist with menu selections or drink specialties. Be sure to ask for one of their different blends of Cachaca which is recommended by fishermen as the traditional drink before eating shellfish and is one of the ingredients for the popular Brazilian Caipirinhas. They will even share with you the secret way of drinking this strong liquor by itself.

Gabbiani Restaurant

Any visit to Floripa is bound to be a memorable vacation but Brazil Eco Journeys will ensure that you receive a true gay-friendly welcome from accommodations---like the Natur Campeche Pousada--- to restaurants and of course where to find the gay beach. Pack plenty of sun tan lotion and prepare for one or more of the spectacular beaches for relaxation or aqua sports.

Note: Florianopolis is the host city for the International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA) Annual Convention in 2012.

For More Information Visit: http://www.brazilecojourneys.com/

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Tigre Islands Gay Escape

Tigre Water Bus Jetty

Photos and Story by Roy Heale
Anyone who has been lucky enough to spend time in Buenos Aires during the summer months is well aware of the wonderful warm weather and how hot the city becomes every day. Fortunately, close at hand is the resort community of the Delta Tigre Islands just about a one hour journey to the north of the city. This is a large region---almost 400 square kilometers---of the Parana River Delta and the small low-lying islands forming the perfect community for an escape involving water sport activities to cool off and enjoy. No wonder the Rainbow Flag can be spotted along the waterways!

The main town of Tigre can be reached by taking the direct train from Retiro Station in Buenos Aires with about a forty-five minute journey and a round-trip ticket costing less than a dollar. It is so popular with the locals and tourists there is a special ticket booth dedicated to this route alone. Once in the town of Tigre there is a multitude of options to enjoy. Strolling around you can discover some of the historic architecture like the Buenos Aires Rowing Club headquarters built in 1878, or the Italian Canottieri Club, the waterfront includes the Parque de la Costa amusement park, and the Puerto Carpincho market abounds with local crafts and household items.

Buenos Aires Rowing Club
But the real fun is on the water and at the small island settlements. Numerous Catamaran tours are available from the heart of Tigre and the tours range from forty minutes to two hours with prices starting at about ten dollars. This is s a very good way to orient yourself on a first visit to the islands. Numerous water-side restaurants and bars are dotted along the river banks to create the perfect places for leisurely dining or just sipping a refreshing cocktail.

However, my first visit happened to be a Sunday at the gay-owned and operated Favela Bed & Breakfast Resort on the island of Tres Bocas. This was an organized day-trip excursion operated by Job Grobben of bagayschool.com and about a dozen of us met early in the morning for a gay day in the sun. The Tres Boca island is reached by water bus from the main Tigre terminal and the round-trip ticket is about five dollars and takes roughly thirty minutes depending on the number of stops made by the bus. If you are making this journey without a tour guide remember to inform the water bus staff where you need to disembark and they will tell you when you have reached that point. The Favela is just a short five minute walk from the main Tres Boca jetty and it is easy to find on the island map which is readily available upon arrival.

Favela Bed & Breakfast Resort

Our day at the resort included an asado lunch with fresh salads and hellado---ice cream---desert accompanied by local wine and soft drinks. The large swimming pool was a wonderful cooling respite from the city's heat and the cash bar proved extremely popular for cold beers and more. For a small additional expense the on-site masseur was available to smooth away those urban tensions and make sure the afternoon by the pool was relaxing. Several guests also indulged with an afternoon siesta in the hammocks shaded by large trees. It was the perfect way to spend a Sunday when it was hovering around forty degrees in the city of Buenos Aires.

Cruising the Waters

Throughout the islands there are many small and large public beaches, camping grounds, accommodations, and facilities for day-trippers to enjoy this natural paradise created by the large river's delta. The tourist office beside the water bus ticket booth is an excellent source of information about the islands and most of the staff are fluent in English; all are very knowledgeable about the region. You may want to inquire about the Tren De La Costa as an alternative route home and although it is a slightly longer journey it is a more scenic route to enjoy.